This spring, my husband and I loaded a suitcase, a cooler, a guitar, and our blue heeler Gunnar into his pickup truck and made the 7-hour drive from Austin to Marfa.  The small town is a gem in an otherwise remote area of West Texas, 60 miles from the Mexican border and as close to Phoenix as it is to Houston.  With its bohemian vibe, its mountain views, and its emphasis on art, it’s easy to think Marfa is a desert mirage.  But the hype that drives city dwellers to Marfa for a peaceful escape is real–this tiny town is the definition of cool.

Since we adopted Gunnar, we’ve been prioritizing road trips over flights so he can join us on our getaways.  A cattle herding breed known for their attachment to humans, heelers are often most comfortable in the presence of their owners, and Gunnar loves nothing more than riding between us in the middle seat with the windows down, sniffing the new smells of unfamiliar places.  Finding dog-friendly places to stay and eat in Marfa was a priority for us.

Day 1

We bunked in an Airstream at El Cosmico, a welcome place for dogs and a charmingly bohemian campground for travelers.  Every detail of the property was well executed to ensure a memorable guest experience, from large baskets of foodie-approved snacks in the trailers to morning coffee served by the fireplace at the main house.  While I immediately fell in love with our trailer, when we got there we were hungry from our long drive, so we unpacked and then drove to the first restaurant with a patio for Gunnar.  Lucky for us, Convenience West was open and happy to host our furry little guy.

I’ll caveat my assessment of Convenience West by stating I’m not a barbecue expert; I’m from northeast Ohio where “barbecue” means grilling hot dogs and hamburgers.  But I’ve lived in Austin for twelve years and had my fair share of Texas BBQ, and Convenience West had the best I’ve ever tasted.  I ordered brisket with a side of sweet potato salad, carrot dip and Michael ordered a brisket sandwich.  The meat was crunchy and smoky on the outside, fall-apart tender on the inside, and served with generous portions of pickled veggies and fresh jalapenos.  The carrot dip, accompanied by a mountain of salty Fritos, was unlike anything I’ve tasted before.  I can’t recall the exact ingredients but I can infer it was made with puréed carrots, garlic, chiles and olive oil.  Gunnar was clearly captivated by the smell of smoked meat and stared at us with his paws on the picnic bench until we caved and fed him what might have been the finest meal of his short life.  Satisfied and sleepy, we returned to El Cosmico and watched the sunset from the patio outside our trailer.

Day 2

Nighttime temps were still below freezing in March, so the next morning we were eager to warm up with coffee.  We trekked across the dusty lot to the main house, where half a dozen travelers sipped the hot beverage near a cozy fireplace.  Gunnar curled up on the leather couch next to Michael while I browsed the serape-striped cotton robes, camping books, graphic tees and natural body care products in the trendy boutique in the front of the house. 

We then drove to the downtown square–if you can call it a downtown–and checked out the local stores and galleries. We passed through the lobby of Hotel Paisano, where the staff treated Gunnar like a king and fed him an endless supply of treats.  

We were hungry again after a few hours of exploring the town and headed back to El Cosmico for a light lunch at their food truck called Cloudy’s.  I ordered a delicious fried egg and butternut squash taco on a freshly grilled corn tortilla.

Michael retreated to the trailer for a nap while I sat on our sunbaked patio and scribbled in my new El Cosmico sketchbook, with the pink and green pens I’d purchased at Marfa Art Supply.  When it was time for dinner, we headed to the dog-friendly Water Stop, where I had an iceberg wedge salad with tomato, bacon, gremolata, and creamy herb feta dressing and Michael had a Green Chile Cheeseburger with cheddar cheese, roasted Anaheim peppers and vegan mayonnaise.

In the evening we parked at the Marfa Lights Viewing Area.  We unrolled our sleeping bag in the truck bed, curled up with the dog, and watched as the stars slowly emerged from the darkening sky.  While we didn’t see the mysterious cosmic lights that Marfa is famous for, I did feel extraordinary things that I hadn’t felt in a while as the milky way revealed its magnitude: a sense of peace, and an acceptance of my modest role in this vast universe.

Day 3

Breakfast the next morning was at The Sentinel.  The Sentinel has a cool shop in the front of the restaurant, featuring western-style belt buckles, stickers, coffee, chocolate and other provisions.  According to their website, every purchase supports local independent journalism (featured in the Big Bend region's newspaper of the same name).  We took Gunnar to the outdoor seating area and enjoyed a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon and home fries.

That day, I filled up on snacks from the basket in our trailer at El Cosmico, and from our midday stop at The Get Go.  While The Get Go isn’t dog-friendly, I recommend checking out this quaint little grocery store that sells West Texas goods.  Some favorite new treats I discovered in Marfa were Mezcla Mexican Hot Chocolate Plant Protein Bars, Teeccino Dandelion Caramel Nut Tea, Aura Bora Cactus Rose Sparkling Water, Taste Nirvana Coconut Water, and paletas con chile (traditional Mexican lollipops made with chile) by Halo del Santo.

After a long day of exploring more shops, we revisited Hotel Paisano for an evening snack at their restaurant, Jett’s Grill, where Gunnar was allowed to chill with us in the lovely courtyard.  I ordered the Curandera, a refreshing cocktail made with my favorite liquor mezcal, poblano liqueur, freshly squeezed lemon, agave nectar, mole bitters and Topo Chico.  We munched on chips with queso and guacamole, and fried artichoke hearts, a delightfully crunchy, greasy way to get our daily vegetables.

Day 4

We awoke before dawn the following morning and hit the road early, but not before stopping at Marfa Burrito.  On the outside it doesn’t look like much, and on the inside it doesn’t look like much either.  If you visit you might pour yourself complimentary coffee in a styrofoam cup while perusing the wall-to-wall scribblings and photos of its famous visitors–including Anthony Bourdain, Mark Ruffalo and Matthew McConaughey–as the ladies in the kitchen prepare your order. Despite the restaurant’s humble appearance, Michael devoured his two giant burritos with great satisfaction while I enjoyed my egg, potato and cheese taco on a corn tortilla.

The sunrise over the mountains offered a spectacular view on the morning drive along Route 90.  But we couldn’t head home without visiting Alpine, a small college town 18 miles east of Marfa, so we pulled over at Cedar Coffee & Supply.  I left Gunnar in the truck with Michael while I popped in for a cappuccino to go and the “largest black coffee they have, with an ice cube,” for him.  As I had now come to expect of the local establishments, the coffee shop had a minimalist interior with modish goods and an aesthetically top-notch Instagram.  Our quick drive through Alpine suggested it also has a lot to offer in terms of West Texas charm, so we agreed to make it our home base the next time we visit the Big Bend region.

The magic of West Texas, its food, and its off-the-beaten-path uniqueness is difficult to depict in words and photos, so if you live in the southwestern U.S. and are yearning for an escape with your pup, make the drive and experience it yourself.  We’ll all come back now, ya hear?